ESSAYS-1

第5章

Theinfluenceofsucheconomicalarrangementsextendseventothemoralcharacterofthosewhoaretheobjectsofthem。

Oftheexpenceoffeedingsoldiersinmesses。

OfthesurprisingsmallnessoftheexpenceoffeedingthepooratMunich。

SpecificproposalsrespectingthefeedingofthepoorinGreatBritain,withcalculationsoftheexpense,atthepresentpricesofprovisions。

CHAPTER。VI。

OfINDIANCORN。

Itaffordsthecheapestandmostnourishingfoodknown。

Proofsthatitismorenourishingthanrice。

Differentwaysofpreparingorcookingit。

Computationoftheexpenseoffeedingapersonwithit,foundedonexperiment。

ApprovedReceiptformakinganINDIANPUDDING。

CHAPTER。VII。

ReceiptsforpreparingvariousKindsofcheapFood。

OfMACCARONI。

OfPOTATOES。

Approvedreceiptsforboilingpotatoes。

Ofpotatoepuddings。

Ofpotatoedumplings。

Ofboiledpotatoeswithasauce。

Ofpotatoesalad。

OfBARLEY

Ismuchmorenutritiousthanwheat。

Barleymeal,agoodsubstituteforpearlbarley,formakingsoups。

Generaldirectionsforpreparingcheapsoups。

Receiptforthecheapestsoupthatcanbemade。

OfSAMP

MethodofpreparingitIsanexcellentSubstituteforBread。

OfbrownSoup。

OfRYEBREAD。

ESSAYIII。

INTRODUCTION。

Itisacommonsaying,thatnecessityisthemotherofinvention;andnothingismorestrictlyormoregenerallytrue。

Itmayevenbeshown,thatmostofthesuccessiveimprovementsintheaffairsofmeninastateofcivilsociety,ofwhichwehaveanyauthenticrecords,havebeenmadeunderthepressureofnecessity;anditisnosmallconsolation,intimesofgeneralalarm,toreflectupontheprobabilitythat,uponsuchoccasions,usefuldiscoverieswillresultfromtheunitedexertionsofthosewho,eitherfrommotivesoffear,orsentimentsofbenevolence,labourtoaverttheimpendingevil。

Thealarminthiscountryatthepresentperiod[1],onaccountofthehighpriceofcorn,andthedangerofascarcity,hasturnedtheattentionofthePublictoaveryimportantsubject,THEINVESTIGATIONOFTHESCIENCEOFNUTRITION;——asubjectsocuriousinitself,andsohighlyinterestingtomankind,thatitseemstrulyastonishingitshouldhavebeensolongneglected:——

butinthemannerinwhichitisnowtakenup,bothbytheHouseofCommons,andtheBoardofAgriculture,thereisgreatreasontohopethatitwillreceiveathoroughscientificexamination;andifthisshouldbethecase,Iwillventuretopredict,thattheimportantdiscoveries,andimprovements,whichmustresultfromtheseenquiries,willrenderthealarmswhichgaverisetothemforeverfamousintheannalsofcivilsociety。

CHAPTER。I。

Greatimportanceofthesubjectunderconsideration。

Probabilitythatwateractsamuchmoreimportantpartinnutritionthanhashithertobeengenerallyimagined。

Surprisinglysmallquantityofsolidfoodnecessary,whenproperlyprepared,forallthepurposesofnutrition。

Greatimportanceoftheartofcookery。

Barleyremarkablynutritivewhenproperlyprepared。

TheimportanceofculinaryprocessesforpreparingfoodshownfromtheknownutilityofapracticecommoninsomepartsofGermanyofcookingforcattle。

Difficultyofintroducingachargeofcookeryintocommonuse。

Meansthatmaybeemployedforthatpurpose。

Thereis,perhaps,nooperationofNature,whichfallsunderthecognizanceofoursenses,moresurprising,ormorecurious,thanthenourishmentandgrowthofplants,andanimals;andthereiscertainlynosubjectofinvestigationmoreinterestingtomankind——Asprovidingsubsistenceis,andevermustbe,anobjectofthefirstconcerninallcountries,anydiscoveryorimprovementbywhichtheprocuringofgoodandwholesomefoodcanbefacilitated,mustcontributeverypowerfullytoincreasethecomforts,andpromotethehappinessofsociety。

Thatourknowledgeinregardtothescienceofnutritionisstillveryimperfect,iscertain;but,Ithinkthereisreasontobelieve,thatweareupontheeveofsomeveryimportantdiscoveriesrelativetothatmysteriousoperation。

SinceithasbeenknownthatWaterisnotasimpleelement,butaCOMPOUND,andcapableofbeingdecomposed,muchlighthasbeenthrownuponmanyoperationsofnaturewhichformerlywerewrappedupinobscurity。Invegetation,forinstance,ithasbeenrenderedextremelyprobable,thatwateractsamuchmoreimportantpartthanwasformerlyassignedtoitbyphilosophers——

ThatitservesnotmerelyastheVEHICLEofnourishment,butconstitutesatleastonepart,andprobablyanessentialpart,oftheFOODofplants——Thatitisdecomposedbythem,andcontributesMATERIALLYtotheirgrowth;——andthatmanuresserverathertopreparethewaterfordecomposition,thantoformofthemselves——substantially,anddirectly——thenourishmentofthevegetables。

Now,averyclearanalogymaybetraced,betweenthevegetationandgrowthofplants,andthedigestionandnourishmentofanimals;

andaswaterisindispensablynecessaryinbothprocesses,andasinoneofthem,(vegetation,)itappearsevidentlytoserveasFOOD;——whyshouldwenotsupposeitmayserveasfoodintheother?——Thereis,inmyopinion,abundantreasontosuspectthatthisisreallythecase;andIshallnowbrieflystatethegroundsuponwhichthisopinionisfounded——HavingbeenengagedforaconsiderablelengthoftimeinprovidingFoodforthePooratMunich,Iwasnaturallyled,aswellbycuriosityasmotivesofeconomy,tomakeagreatvarietyofexperimentsuponthatsubject;andIhadnotproceededfarinmyoperations,beforeI

begantoperceivethattheywereveryimportant;——evenmuchmoresothanIhadimagined。

Thedifferenceintheapparentgoodness,ofthepalatableness,andapparentnutritiousnessofthesamekindsofFood,whenpreparedofcookedindifferentways,struckmeveryforcibly;

andIconstantlyfoundthattherichnessorQUALITYofasoupdependedmoreuponaproperchoiceoftheingredients,andapropermanagementofthefireinthecombinationofthoseingredients,thanuponthequantityofsolidnutritiousmatteremployed;——muchmoreupontheartandskillofthecook,thanupontheamountofthesumslaidoutinthemarket。

Ifoundlikewise,thatthenutritiousofasoup,oritspowerofsatisfyinghunger,andaffordingnourishment,appearedalwaystobeinproportiontoitsapparentrichnessorpalatableness。

Butwhatsurprisedmenotalittle,wasthediscoveryoftheverysmallquantityofSOLIDFOOD,which,whenproperlyprepared,willsufficetosatisfyhunger,andsupportlifeandhealth;andtheverytriflingexpenceatwhichthestoutest,andmostlaboriousmanmay,inanycountry,befed。

AfteranexperimentofmorethanfiveyearsinfeedingthePooratMunichduringwhichtimeeveryexperimentwasmadethatcouldbedevised,notonlywithregardtothechoiceofthearticlesusedasFood,butalsoinrespecttotheirdifferentcombinationsandproportions;andtothevariouswaysinwhichtheycouldbepreparedorcooked;itwasfoundthattheCHEAPEST,mostSAVOURY,andmostNOURISHINGFoodthatcouldbeprovided,wasasoupcomposedofPEARLBARLEY,PEASE,POTATOES,CUTTINGSOFFINE

WHEATENBREAD,vinegar——saltandwaterincertainproportions。

Themethodofpreparingthissoupisasfollows;Thewaterandthepearlbarleyarefirstputtogetherintotheboilerandmadetoboil;thepeasearethenadded,andtheboilingiscontinuedoveragentlefireabouttwohours;——thepotatoesarethenadded,(havingbeenpreviouslypeeledwithaknife,orhavingbeenboiled,inordertotheirbeingmoreeasilydeprivedoftheirskins,)andtheboilingiscontinuedforaboutonehourmore,duringwhichtimethecontentsoftheboilerarefrequentlystirredaboutwithalargewoodenspoon,orladle,inordertodestroythetextureofthepotatoes,andtoreducethesouptooneuniformmass——Whenthisisdone,thevinegarandthesaltareadded;andlastofall,atthemomentitistobeservedup,thecuttingsofbread。

Thesoupshouldneverbesufferedtoboil,oreventostandlongbeforeitisservedupafterthecuttingsofbreadareputintoit。

Itwill,indeed,forreasonswhichwillhereafterbeexplained,bebestnevertoputthecuttingsofbreadintotheboileratall,but,(asisalwaysdoneatMunich,)toputthemintothetubsinwhichthesoupiscarriedfromthekitchenintothedining-hall;pouringthesouphotfromtheboileruponthem;

andstirringthewholewelltogetherwiththeironladlesusedformeasuringoutthesouptothePoorinthehall。

Itisofmoreimportancethancanwellbeimagined,thatthisbreadwhichismixedwiththesoupshouldnotbeboiled。

Itislikewiseofusethatitshouldbecutasfineorthinaspossible;andifitbedryandhard,itwillbesomuchthebetter。

ThebreadweuseatMunichiswhatiscalledsemelbread,beingsmallloaves,weighingfromtwotothreeounces;andaswereceivethisbreadindonationsfromthebakers,itiscommonlydryandhard,beingthatwhich,notbeingsoldintime,remainsonhand,andbecomesstaleandunsaleable;andwehavefoundbyexperience,thatthishardandstalebreadanswersforourpurposemuchbetterthananyother,foritrendersmasticationnecessary;andmasticationseemsverypowerfullytoassistinpromotingdigestion:itlikewisePROLONGSTHEDURATIONOFTHE

ENJOYMENTOFEATING,amatterofverygreatimportanceindeed,andwhichhasnothithertobeensufficientlyattendedto。

Thequantityofthissoupfurnishedtoeachperson,ateachmeal,oroneportionofit,(thecuttingsofbreadincluded,)isjustONEBAVARIANPOUNDinweight;andastheBavarianpoundistothepoundAvoirdupoisas1,123842to1,——itisequaltoaboutnineteenouncesandnine-tenthsAvoirdupois。Now,tothosewhoknowthatafullpintofsoupweighsnomorethanaboutsixteenouncesAvoirdupois,itwillnot,perhaps,atthefirstview,appearveryextraordinarythataportionweighingneartwentyounces,andconsequentlymakingnearONEPINTANDAQUARTERofthisrich,strong,savourysoup,shouldbefoundsufficienttosatisfythehungerofagrownperson;butwhenthematterisexaminednarrowly,andproperlyanalyzed,anditisfoundthatthewholequantityofSOLIDFOODwhichentersintothecompositionofoneoftheseportionsofsoup,doesnotamounttoquiteSIXOUNCES,itwillthenappeartobealmostimpossiblethatthisallowanceshouldbesufficient。

Thatitisquitesufficient,however,tomakeagoodmealforastronghealthyperson,hasbeenabundantlyprovedbylongexperience。Ihaveevenfoundthatasoupcomposedofnearlythesameingredients,exceptthepotatoes,butindifferentproportions,wassufficientlynutritive,andverypalatable,inwhichonlyaboutFOUROUNCESANDTHREEQUARTERSofsolidFoodenteredintothecompositionofaportionweighingtwentyounces。

Butthiswillnotappearincredibletothosewhoknow,thatonesinglespoonfulofsalope,weighinglessthanonequarterofanounce,putintoapintofboilingwater,formsthethickestandmostnourishingsoupthatcanbetaken;andthatthequantityofsolidmatterwhichentersintothecompositionofanotherverynutritiveFood,hartshornjelly,isnotmuchmoreconsiderable。

Thebarleyinmysoup,seemstoactmuchthesamepartasthesalopeinthisfamousrestorative;andnosubstitutethatIcouldeverfindforit,amongallthevarietyofcornandpulseofthegrowthofEurope,everproducedhalftheeffect;thatistosay,halfthenourishmentatthesameexpence。BarleymaythereforebeconsideredasthericeofGreatBritain。

Itrequires,itistrue,agreatdealofboiling;butwhenitisproperlymanaged,itthickensavastquantityofwater;and,asI

suppose,PREPARESITFORDECOMPOSITION。Italsogivesthesoupintowhichitentersasaningredient,adegreeofrichnesswhichnothingelsecangive。Ithaslittleornotasteinitself,butwhenmixedwithotheringredientswhicharesavoury,itrendersthempeculiarlygratefultothepalate[2]。

Itisamaxim,asancient,Ibelieve,asthetimeofHippocrates,that“whateverpleasesthepalatenourishes;“andIhaveoftenhadreasontothinkitperfectlyjust。Coulditbeclearlyascertainedanddemonstrated,itwouldtendtoplaceCOOKERYinamuchmorerespectablesituationamongtheartsthanitnowholds。

ThatthemannerinwhichFoodispreparedisamatterofrealimportance;andthatthewaterusedinthatprocessactsamuchmoreimportantpartthanhashithertobeengenerallyimagined,is,Ithink,quiteevident;for,itseemstometobeimpossible,uponanyothersuppositions,toaccountfortheappearances。

IftheverysmallquantityofsolidFoodwhichentersintothecompositionofaportionofsomeverynutritivesoupweretobeprepareddifferently,andtakenundersomeotherform,thatofbread,forinstance;sofarfrombeingsufficienttosatisfyhunger,andaffordacomfortableandnutritivemeal,apersonwouldabsolutelystarveuponsuchaslenderallowance;andnogreatreliefwouldbederivedfromdrinkingCRUDEwatertofillupthevoidinthestomach。

ButitisnotmerelyfromanobservationoftheapparenteffectsofcookeryuponthosearticleswhichareusedasFoodforman,thatweareledtodiscovertheimportanceoftheseculinaryprocesses。Theirutilityisprovedinamannerequallyconclusiveandsatisfactory,bytheeffortswhichhavebeenproducedbyemployingthesameprocessinpreparingFoodforbruteanimals。

Itiswellknown,thatboilingthepotatoeswithwhichhogsarefed,rendersthemmuchmorenutritive;andsincetheintroductionofthenewsystemoffeedinghornedcattle,thatofkeepingthemconfinedinthestablesalltheyearround,(amethodwhichisnowcomingfastintocommonuseinmanypartsofGermany,)greatimprovementshavebeenmadeintheartofprovidingnourishmentforthoseanimals;andparticularlybypreparingtheirFood,byoperationssimilartothoseofcookery;andtotheseimprovementsitismostprobablyowing,thatstallfeedinghas,inthatcountry,beensouniversallysuccessful。

IthaslongbeenapracticeinGermanyforthosewhofattenbullocksforthebutcher,orfeedmilch-cows,togivethemfrequentlywhatiscalledadrankordrink;whichisakindofpottage,prepareddifferentlyindifferentpartsofthecountry,andinthedifferentseasons,accordingtothegreaterfacilitywithwhichoneorotherofthearticlesoccasionallyemployedinthecompositionofitmaybeprocured;andaccordingtotheparticularfanciesofindividuals。Manyfeedersmakeagreatsecretofthecompositionoftheirdrinks,andsomehave,tomyknowledge,carriedtheirrefinementsofarasactuallytomixbrandyinthem,insmallquantities;andpretendtohavefoundtheiradvantageinaddingthiscostlyingredient。

Thearticlesmostcommonlyusedare,bran,oatmeal,brewersgrains,mashedpotatoes,mashedturnips,ryemeal,andbarleymeal,withalargeproportionofwater;sometimestwoorthreeormoreofthesearticlesareunitedinformingadrink;andofwhateveringredientsthedrinkiscomposed,alargeproportionofsaltisalwaysaddedtoit。

Thereis,perhaps,nothingnewinthismethodoffeedingcattlewithliquidmixtures,butthemannerinwhichthesedrinksarenowpreparedinGermanyis,Ibelieve,quitenew;andshowswhatIwishtoprove,thatCOOKINGRENDERSFOODREALLYMORENUTRITIVE。

Thesedrinkswereformerlygivencold,butitwasafterwardsdiscoveredthattheyweremorenourishingwhengivenwarm;andoflatetheirpreparationis,inmanyplaces,becomeaveryregularculinaryprocess。Kitchenshavebeenbuilt,andlargeboilersprovidedandfittedup,merelyforcookingforthecattleinthestables;andIhavebeenassuredbymanyveryintelligentfarmers,whohaveadoptedthisnewmodeoffeeding,(andhavealsofoundbymyownexperience,)thatitisveryadvantageousindeed;

thatthedrinksareevidentlyrenderedmuchmorenourishingandwholesomebybeingboiled;andthattheexpenceoffuel,andthetroubleattendingthisprocess,areamplycompensatedbytheadvantagesderivedfromtheimprovementoftheFood。Weevenfinditadvantageoustocontinuetheboilingaconsiderabletime,twoorthreehours,forinstance;astheFoodgoesontobestillfartherimproved,thelongertheboilingiscontinued[3]。

Thesefactsseemevidentlytoshow,thatthereissomeveryimportantsecretwithregardtonutrition,whichhasnotbeenyetproperlyinvestigated;anditseemstometobemoreprobable,thatthenumbersofinhabitantswhomaybesupportedinanycountry,uponitsinternalproduce,dependsalmostasmuchuponthestateofTHEARTOFCOOKERY,asuponthatofagriculture——

TheChinese,perhaps,understandboththeseartsbetterthananyothernation——Savagesunderstandneitherofthem。

But,ifcookerybeofsomuchimportance,itcertainlydeservestobestudiedwiththegreatestcare;anditoughtparticularlytobeattendedtointimesofgeneralalarmonaccountofascarcityofprovisions;forthereliefwhichmayinsuchcasesbederivedfromit,isimmediateandeffectual,whileallotherresourcesaredistantanduncertain。

Iamawareofthedifficultieswhichalwaysattendtheintroductionofmeasurescalculatedtoproduceandremarkablechangeinthecustomsandhabitsofmankind;andthereisperhapsnochangemoredifficulttoeffect,thanthatwhichwouldbenecessaryinordertomakeanyconsiderablesavingintheconsumptionofthosearticlescommonlyusedasFood;butstill,Iamofopinion,thatsuchachangemight,withpropermanagement,bebroughtabout。

Therewasatime,nodoubt,whenanaversiontopotatoeswasasgeneral,andasstrong,inGreatBritain,andeveninIreland,asitisnowinsomepartsofBavaria;butthisprejudicehasbeengotover;andIampersuaded,thatanynationalprejudice,howeverdeeplyrooted,maybeovercome,providedpropermeansbeusedforthatpurpose,andtimeallowedfortheiroperation。

Butnotwithstandingthedifficultyofintroducingageneraluseofsoupsthroughoutthecountry,orofanyotherkindofFood,howeverpalatable,cheap,andnourishing,towhichpeoplehavenotbeenaccustomed,yettheseimprovementsmightcertainlybemade,withgreatfacility,inallpublichospitalsandwork-houses,wherethePoorarefedatthepublicexpense;andthesavingofprovisions,(nottomentionthediminutionofexpence,)whichmightbederivedfromthisimprovement,wouldbeveryimportantatalltimes,andmoreespeciallyintimesofgeneralscarcity。

Anothermeasure,stillmoreimportant,andwhichmight,Iampersuaded,beeasilycarriedintoexecution,istheestablishmentofpublickitchensinalltowns,andlargevillages,throughoutthekingdom,whence,notonlythePoormightbefedgratis,butalsoalltheindustriousinhabitantsoftheneighbourhoodmightbefurnishedwithFoodatsocheaparate,astobeaverygreatrelieftothematalltimes;andintimesofgeneralscarcity,thisarrangementwouldalonebesufficienttopreventthosepublicandprivatecalamities,whichneverfailtoaccompanythatmostdreadfulofallvisitations,afamine。

ThesavingofFoodthatwouldresultfromfeedingalargeproportionoftheinhabitantsofanycountryfrompublickitchens,wouldbeimmense,andthatsavingwouldtend,immediately,andmostpowerfully,torenderprovisionsmoreplentifulandcheap,——diminishthegeneralalarmonaccountofthedangerofascarcity,andpreventthehoardingupofprovisionsbyindividuals,whichisoftenalonesufficient,withoutanythingelse,tobringonafamine,evenwherethereisnorealscarcity:foritisnotmerelytheFEARSofindividualswhichoperateinthesecases,andinducethemtolayinalargerstoreofprovisionsthantheyotherwisewoulddo;andwhichnaturallyincreasesthescarcityofprovisionsinthemarket,andraisestheirprices;buttherearepersonswhoaresolosttoallthefeelingsofhumanity,asoftentospeculateuponthedistressofthePublic,andallTHEIRoperationseffectuallytendtoincreasethescarcityinthemarkets,andaugmentthegeneralalarm。

Butwithoutenlargingfartherinthisplaceuponthesepublickitchens,andthenumerousandimportantadvantageswhichmayinallcountriesbederivedfromthem,IshallreturntotheinterestingsubjectswhichIhaveundertakentoinvestigate;——

thescienceofnutrition,andtheartofprovidingwholesomeandpalatableFoodatasmallexpence。

CHAPTER。II。

OfthePleasureofEating,andoftheMeansthatmaybeemployedforincreasingit。

Whathasalreadybeensaiduponthissubjectwill,Iflattermyself,bethoughtsufficienttoshowthat,FORALLTHEPURPOSES

OFNOURISHMENT,amuchsmallerquantityofsolidFoodwillsufficethanhashithertobeenthoughtnecessary;butthereisanothercircumstancetobetakenintotheaccount,andthatis,thePLEASUREOFEATING;——anenjoymentofwhichnopersonwillconsenttobedeprived。

ThepleasureenjoyedineatingdependsfirstupontheagreeablenessofthetasteoftheFood;andsecondly,uponitspowertoaffectthepalate。Nowtherearemanysubstancesextremelycheap,bywhichveryagreeabletastesmaybegiventoFood;particularlywhenthebasisornutritivesubstanceoftheFoodistasteless;andtheeffectofanykindofpalatablesolidFood,(ofmeat,forinstance,)upontheorgansoftaste,maybeincreased,almostindefinitely,byreducingthesizeoftheparticlesofsuchFood,andcausingittoactuponthepalatebyalargersurface。Andifmeansbeusedtopreventitsbeingswallowedtoosoon,whichmaybeeasilydonebymixingwithitsomehardandtastelesssubstance,suchascrumbsofbreadrenderedhardbytoasting,oranythingelseofthatkind,bywhichalongmastricationisrenderednecessary,theenjoymentofeatingmaybegreatlyincreasedandprolonged。

Theideaofoccupyingapersonagreatwhile,andaffordinghimmuchpleasureatthesametime,ineatingasmallquantityofFood,may,perhaps,appearridiculoustosome;butthosewhoconsiderthematterattentively,willperceivethatitisveryimportant。Itis,perhaps,asmuchsoasanythingthatcanemploytheattentionofthephilosopher。

Theenjoymentswhichfalltothelotofthebulkofmankindarenotsonumerousastorenderanattempttoincreasethemsuperfluous。

Andeveninregardtothosewhohaveitintheirpowertogratifytheirappetitestotheutmostextentoftheirwishes,itissurelyrenderingthemaveryimportanceservicetoshowthemhowtheymayincreasetheirpleasureswithoutdestroyingtheirhealth。

Ifagluttoncanbemadetogormandizetwohoursupontwoouncesofmeat,itiscertainlymuchbetterforhim,thantogivehimselfanindigestionbyeatingtwopoundsinthesametime。

Iwasledtomeditateuponthissubjectbymereaccident。IhadlongbeenatalosstounderstandhowtheBavariansoldiers,whoareuncommonlystout,strong,andhealthymen,andwho,incommonwithallotherGermans,areremarkablyfondofeating,couldcontrivetoliveupontheverysmallsumstheyexpendedforFood;butamorecarefulexaminationoftheeconomyoftheirtablesclearedupthepoint,andletmeintoasecretwhichawakenedallmycuriosity。Thesesoldiers,insteadofbeingstarvedupontheirscantyallowance,asmighthavebeensuspected,Ifoundactuallylivinginamostcomfortableandevenluxuriousmanner。IfoundthattheyhadcontrivednotonlytorendertheirFoodsavouryandnourishing,but,whatappearedtomestillmoreextraordinary,hadfoundthemeansofincreasingitsactionupontheorgansoftastesoasactuallytoaugment,andevenprolongtoamostsurprisingdegree,theenjoymentofeating。

Thisaccidentaldiscoverymadeadeepimpressionuponmymind,andgaveanewturntoallmyideasonthesubjectofFood——

Itopenedtomeanewandveryinterestingfieldforinvestigationandexperimentinginquiry,ofwhichIhadneverbeforehadadistinctview;andthenceforwardmydiligenceinmakingexperiments,andincollectinginformationrelativetothemannerinwhichFoodispreparedindifferentcountries,wasredoubled。

InthefollowingChaptermaybeseenthegeneralresultsofallmyexperimentsandinquiriesrelativetothissubject——Adesiretorenderthisaccountasconciseandshortaspossiblehasinducedmetoomitmuchinterestingspeculationwhichthesubjectnaturallysuggested;buttheingenuityofthereaderwillsupplythisdefect,andenablehimtodiscovertheobjectsparticularlyaimedatintheexperiments,evenwheretheyarenotmentioned,andtocomparetheresultsofpracticewiththeassumedtheory。

CHAPTER。III。

OfthedifferentkindsoffoodfurnishedtothepoorinthehouseofindustryatMunich,withanaccountofthecostofthem。

OftheExpenseofprovidingthesamekindsoffoodinGreatBritain,aswellatthepresenthighpricesofprovisions,asattheordinarypricesofthem。

Ofthevariousimprovementsofwhichthesedifferentkindsofcheapfoodarecapable。

BeforetheintroductionofpotatoesasFoodintheHouseofIndustryatMunich,(whichwasnotdonetilllastAugust,)

thePoorwerefedwithasoupcomposedinthefollowingmanner:

SOUPNoI。

WeightCostinIngredientsAvoirdupoissterlingmoney。

lb。oz。L。s。d。

4viertls[4]ofpearlbarley,equaltoabout201/3gallons……141201171/2

4viertlsofpeas……13140731/4

Cuttingsoffinewheatenbread……691001021/4

Salt……19130121/2

24maass,veryweakbeer——vinegar,orrathersmallbeerturnedsour,about24quarts……46130151/2

Water,about560quarts……10770——

148510111813/22

Broughtover111813/22

Fuel,88lb。ofdrypinewood,theBavarianclafter,(weighing3961lb。avoirdupois,)

at8s。21/4d。sterling[5]……0021/4

Wagesofthreecook-maids,attwentyflorins(37s。71/2d。)ayear,makesdaily……0032/3

Dailyexpenceforfeedingthethreecook-maids,attencreutzers(32/3pencesterling)each,accordingtoanagreementmadewiththem……0011

Dailywagesoftwomenservants,employedingoingtomarket——collectingdonationsofbread,etc。helpinginthekitchen,andassistinginservingoutthesouptothePoor……0171/4

Repairsofthekitchen,andofthekitchenfurniture,about90florins(8L。3s。7d。sterling)

ayear,makesdaily……0051/2——

Totaldailyexpense,whendinnerisprovidedfor1200persons……11521/4

Thissum(1L。15s。21/4d。)dividedby1200,thenumberofportionsofsoupfurnished,givesforeachportionameretriflemorethanONETHIRDOFAPENNY,orexactly422/1200ofapenny;

theweightofeachportionbeingabout20ounces。

But,moderateastheseexpensesare,whichhaveattendedthefeedingofthePoorofMunich,theyhavelatelybeenreducedstillfartherbyintroducingtheuseofpotatoes——ThesemostvaluablevegetableswerehardlyknowninBavariatillverylately;andsostrongwastheaversionofthepublic,andparticularlyofthePoor,againstthem,atthetimewhenwebegantomakeuseoftheminthepublickitchenoftheHouseofIndustryinMunich,thatwewereabsolutelyobliged,atfirst,tointroducethembystealth——Aprivateroominaretiredcornerwasfittedupasakitchenforcookingthem;anditwasnecessarytodisguisethem,byboilingthemdownentirely,anddestroyingtheirformandtexture,topreventtheirbeingdetected:——butthePoorsoonfoundthattheirsoupwasimprovedinitsqualities;

andtheytestifiedtheirapprobationofthechangethathadbeenmadeinitsogenerallyandloudly,thatitwasatlastthoughttobenolongernecessarytoconcealfromthemthesecretofitscomposition,andtheyarenowgrownsofondofpotatoesthattheywouldnoteasilybesatisfiedwithoutthem。

Theemployingofpotatoesasaningredientinthesouphasenabledustomakeaconsiderablesavingintheothermorecostlymaterials,asmaybeseenbycomparingthefollowingreceiptwiththatalreadygiven。

SOUP,NoII。

Ingredients。WeightCostinAvoirdupois。sterlingmoney。

lb。oz。L。s。d。

2viertlsofpearlbarley……70905913/22

2viertlsofpeas……65100375/8

8viertlsofpotatoes……23040199/11

Cuttingsofbread……691001024/11

Salt……19130121/2

Vinegar……46130151/2

Water……98215——

Totalweight148510

Expensesforfuel,servants,repairs,etc。asbefore……0355/12——

Totaldailyexpence,whendinnerisprovidedfor1200persons……1762/3

Thissum(1L。7s。62/3。)dividedby1200,thenumberofportionsofsoup,givesforeachportionONEFARTHINGverynearly;oraccurately,11/40farthing。

Thequantityofeachoftheingredientscontainedinoneportionofsoupisasfollows:

Inavoirdupoisweight。

Ingredients。Soup,NoI。Soup,NoII。

Ofpearlbarley11058/120001129/1200

Ofpeas……1960/120001050/1200

Ofpotatoes——384/1200

Ofbread……01114/120001114/1200——

Totalsolids4772/12005977/1200

Ofsalt……0316/12000316/1200

Ofweakvinegar0748/12000748/1200

Ofwater……14432/120013127/1200——

Total19968/120019968/1200

Theexpenceofpreparingthesesoupswillvarywiththepricesofthearticlesofwhichtheyarecomposed;butasthequantitiesoftheingredients,determinedbyweight,areheregiven,itwillbeeasytoascertainexactlywhattheywillcostinanycasewhatever。

Suppose,forinstance,itwererequiredtodeterminehowmuch1200portionsoftheSoup,No。I。wouldcostinLondonatthispresentmoment,(the12thofNovember1795,)whenallkindsofprovisionsareuncommonlydear。IseebyaprintedreportoftheBoardofAgriculture,ofthedaybeforeyesterday(November10),thatthepricesofthearticlesnecessaryforpreparingthesesoupswereasfollows:

Barley,perbushelweighing46lb。at5s。6d。whichgivesforeachpoundabout11/2d;butpreparedaspearlbarley,itwillcostatleasttwopenceperpound[6]。

Boilingpeasperbushel,weighing611/4lb。(at10s。)whichgivesforeachpoundnearly11/2d。

Potatoes,perbushel,weighing581/2lb。at2s。6d。whichgivesnearlyonehalfpennyforeachpound。

AndIfindthataquarternloafofwheatenbread,weighing4lb。

5oz。costsnowinLondon1s。01/4d。;——thisbreadmustthereforebereckonedat1125/69farthingsperpound。

Saltcosts11/2。perpound;andvinegar(whichisprobablysixtimesasstrongasthatstuffcalledvinegarwhichisusedinthekitchenoftheHouseofIndustryatMunich)costs1s。8d。pergallon。

Thisbeingpremised,thecomputationsmaybemadeasfollows:

ExpenceofpreparinginLondon,inthemonthofNovember1795,1200portionsoftheSoup,NoI。

lbozsdL。s。d。

1412pearlbarley,at02perlb。1126

1314peas,at011/2——0164

6910wheatenbread,at01125/99——0166

1913salt,at011/2——0251/2

Vinegar,onegallon,at18——018

Expencesforfuel,servants,kitchenfurniture,etc。reckoningthreetimesasmuchasthosearticlesofexpenceamounttodailyatMunich……01041/4——

Total3991/4

Whichsum(3L。9s。91/4d。)dividedby1200,thenumberofportionsofsoup,gives2951/1200farthings,ornearly23/4

farthingsforeachportion。

FortheSoup,NoII。itwillbe,lb。oz。s。d。L。s。d。

709pearlbarley,at02——0119

6510peas,at011/2——082

2304potatoes,at001/2——0139

6910bread,at01125/65——0166

1913salt,at011/2——0251/2

Vinegar,onegallon——018

Expensesforfuel,servants,etc——01041/4——

Total3473/4

Thissum(3L。4s。73/4d。)dividedby1200,thenumberofportions,givesforeach21/2farthingsverynearly。

ThissoupcomesmuchhigherhereinLondon,thanitwoulddoinmostotherpartsofGreatBritain,onaccountoftheveryhighpriceofpotatoesinthiscity;butinmostpartsofthekingdom,andcertainlyineverypartofIreland,itmaybefurnished,evenatthispresentmoment,notwithstandingtheuncommonlyhighpricesofprovisions,atlessthanONEHALFPENNYtheportionof20ounces。

Thoughtheobjectmostattendedtoincomposingthesesoupswastorenderthemwholesomeandnourishing,yettheyareveryfarfrombeingunpalatable——Thebasisofthesoups,whichiswaterpreparedandthickenedbybarley,iswellcalculatedtoreceive,andtoconveytothepalateinanagreeablemanner,everythingthatissavouryintheotheringredients;andthedrybreadrenderingmasticationnecessary,prolongstheactionoftheFoodupontheorgansoftaste,andbythatmeansincreasesandPROLONGStheenjoymentofeating。

Butthoughthesesoupsareverygoodandnourishing,yettheycertainlyarecapableofavarietyofimprovements——Themostobviousmeansofimprovingthemistomixwiththemasmallquantityofsaltedmeat,boiled,andcutintoverysmallpieces,(thesmallerthebetter,)andtofrythebreadthatisputintotheminbutter,orinthefatofsaltedporkorbacon。

Thebread,bybeingfried,isnotonlyrenderedmuchharder,butbeingimpregnatedwithafatoroilysubstanceitremainshardafteritisputintothesoup,thewaternotbeingabletopenetrateitandsoftenit。

Allgoodcooksputfriedbread,cutintosmallsquarepieces,inpeas-soup;butImuchdoubtwhethertheyareawareoftheverygreatimportanceofthatpractice,orthattheyhaveanyjustideaoftheMANNERinwhichthebreadimprovesthesoup。

Thebestkindofmeatformixingwiththesesoupsissaltedpork,orbacon,orsmokedbeef。

Whatevermeatisused,itoughttobeboiledeitherinclearwaterorinthesoup;andafteritisboiled,itoughttobecutintoverysmallpieces,assmallperhaps,asbarley-corns——Thebreadmaybecutinpiecesofthesizeoflargepeas,orinthinslices;

andafteritisfried,itmaybemixedwiththemeatandputintothesoup-dishes,andthesouppouredonthemwhenitisservedout。

Anothermethodofimprovingthissoupistomixitwithsmalldumplins,ormeat-balls,madeofbread,flour,andsmokedbeef,ham,oranyotherkindofsaltedmeat,oroflivercutintosmallpieces,orratherMINCED,asitiscalled——Thesedumplinsmaybeboiledeitherinthesouporinclearwater,andputintothesoupwhenitisservedout。

Asthemeatinthesecompositionsisdesignedrathertopleasethepalatethanforanythingelse,thesoupbeingsufficientlynourishingwithoutit,itisormuchimportancethatitbereducedtoverysmallpieces,inorderthatitbebroughtintocontractwiththeorgansoftastebyalargesurface;andthatitbemixedwithsomehardsubstance,(friedbread,forinstance,crumbs,orharddumplins,)whichwillnecessarilyprolongthetimeemployedinmastication。

Whenthisisdone,andwherethemeatemployedhasmuchflavour,averysmallquantityofitwillbefoundsufficienttoanswerthepurposerequired。

ONEOUNCEofbacon,orofsmokedbeef,andONEOUNCEoffriedbread,addedtoEIGHTEENOUNCESoftheSoupNo。I。wouldaffordanexcellentmeal,inwhichthetasteofanimalfoodwoulddecidedlypredominate。

Driedsaltfish,orsmokedfish,boiledandthenminced,andmadeintodumplinswithmashedpotatoes,bread,andflour,andboiledagain,wouldbeverygood,eatenwitheitheroftheSoupNo。I。

orNo。II。

Thesesoupsmaylikewisebeimproved,bymixingwiththemvariouskindsofcheaprootsandgreenvegetables,asturnips,carrots,parsnips,celery,cabbages,sour-crout,etc。asalsobyseasoningthemwithfineherbsandblackpepper——Onionsandleeksmaylikewisebeusedwithgreatadvantage,astheynotonlyservetorendertheFoodinwhichtheyenterasingredientspeculiarlysavoury,butarereallyverywholesome。

Withregardtothebarleymadeuseofinpreparingthesesoups,thoughIalwayshaveusedpearlbarley,orrolledbarley(asitiscalledinGermany),yetIhavenodoubtbutcommonbarley-mealwouldanswernearlyaswell;particularlyifcareweretakentoboilitgentlyforasufficientlengthoftimeoveraslowfirebeforethepeasareadded[7]。

Tillthelastyear,weusedtocookthebarley-soupandthepeas-soupseparate,andnottomixthemtillthemomentwhentheywerepouredintothetubsuponthecutbread,inordertobecarriedintothedining-hall;butIdonotknowthatanyadvantageswerederivedfromthatpractice;thesoupbeing,toallappearances,quiteasgoodsincethebarleyandthepeashavebeencookedtogetherasbefore。

Assoonasthesoupisdone,andtheboilersareemptied,theyareimmediatelyrefilledwithwater,andthebarleyforthesoupforthenextdayisputintoit,andlefttosteepovernight;

andatsixo’clockthenextmorningthefiresarelightedundertheboilers[8]。

Thepeas,however,areneversufferedtoremaininthewaterover-night,aswehavefound,byrepeatedtrials,thattheyneverboilsoftifthewaterinwhichtheyareboiledisnotboilinghotwhentheyareputintoit——WhetherthisispeculiartothepeaswhichgrowinBavaria,Iknownot。

WhenIbegantofeedthePoorofMunich,therewasalsoaquantityofmeatboiledintheirsoup;butasthequantitywassmall,andthequalityofitbutveryindifferent,Ineverthoughtitcontributedmuchtorenderingthevictualsmorenourishing:butassoonasmeanswerefoundforrenderingthesouppalatablewithoutmeat,thequantityofitusedwasgraduallydiminished,anditwasatlengthentirelyomitted。

IneverheardthatthePoorcomplainedofthewantofit;

andmuchdoubtwhethertheytooknoticeofit。

Themanagementofthefireincookingis,inallcases,amatterofgreatimportance;butinnocaseisitsonecessarytobeattendedtoasinpreparingthecheapandnutritivesoupshererecommended——Notonlythepalatableness,buteventhestrengthorrichnessofthesoup,seemstodependverymuchuponthemanagementoftheheatemployedincookingit。

Fromthebeginningoftheprocesstotheendofit,theboilingshouldbeasgentleaspossible;——andifitwerepossibletokeepthesoupalwaysJUSTBOILINGHOT,withoutactuallyboiling,itwouldbesomuchthebetter。

Causinganythingtoboilviolentlyinanyculinaryprocessisveryilljudged;foritnotonlydoesnotexpedite,eveninthesmallestdegree,theprocessofcooking,butitoccasionsamostenormouswasteoffuel;andbydrivingawaywiththesteammanyofthemorevolatileandmoresavouryparticlesoftheingredients,rendersthevictualslessgoodandlesspalatable——Tothosewhoareacquaintedwiththeexperimentalphilosophyofheat,andwhoknowthatwateroncebroughttobeBOILINGHOT,howevergentlyitmayboilinfact,CANNOTBEMADEANYHOTTER,howeverlargeandintensethefireunderitmaybemade,andwhoknowthatitisbytheHEAT——thatistosay,THEDEGREEorintensifyofit,andtheTIMEofitsbeingcontinued,andnotbythebubblinguporBOILING,(asitiscalled)ofthewaterthatculinaryoperationsareperformed——thiswillbeevident,andthosewhoknowthatmorethanFIVETIMESasmuchheatisrequiredtoSENDOFFINSTEAManygivenquantityofwaterALREADYBOILINGHOTaswouldbenecessarytoheatthesamequantityofICE-COLDwaterTOTHEBOILINGPOINT——

willseetheenormouswasteofheat,andconsequentlyoffuel,which,inallcasesmustresultfromviolentboilinginculinaryprocesses。

Topreventthesoupfromburningtotheboiler,thebottomoftheboilershouldbemadeDOUBLE;thefalsebottom,(whichmaybeverythin)beingfixedontheinsideoftheboiler,thetwosheetsofcopperbeingeverywhereincontactwitheachother;

buttheyoughtnottobeattachedtoeachotherwithsolder,exceptonlyattheedgeofthefalsebottomwhereitisjoinedtothesidesoftheboiler——Thefalsebottomshouldhavearimaboutaninchandahalfwide,projectingupwards,bywhichitshouldberivetedtothesidesoftheboiler;butonlyfewrivets,ornails,shouldbeusedforfixingthetwobottomstogetherbelow,andthoseusedshouldbeverysmall;otherwisewherelargenailsareemployedatthebottomoftheboiler,wherethefireismostintense,thesoupwillbeapttoBURNTO;atleastontheheadsofthoselargenails。

Thetwosheetsofmetalmaybemadetotoucheachothereverywhere,byhammeringthemtogetherafterthefalsebottomisfixedinitsplace;andtheymaybetackedtogetherbyafewsmallrivetsplacedhereandthere,atconsiderabledistancesfromeachother;andafterthisisdone,theboilermaybetinned。

Intinningtheboiler,ifpropercarebetaken,theedgeofthefalsebottommaybesolderedbythetintothesidesoftheboiler,andthiswillpreventthewater,orotherliquidsputintotheboiler,fromgettingbetweenthetwobottoms。

Inthismannerdoublebottomsmaybemadetosauce-pansandkettlesofallkindsusedincooking;andthiscontrivancewill,inallcases,mosteffectuallypreventwhatiscalledbythecooksburningto[9]。

Theheatissomuchobstructedinitspassagethroughthethinsheetofair,which,notwithstandingallthecarethatistakentobringthetwobottomsintoactualcontact,willstillremainbetweenthem,thesecondhastimetogiveitsheatasfastasitreceivesit,tothefluidintheboiler;andconsequentlyneveracquiresadegreeofheatsufficientforburninganythingthatmaybeuponit。

Perhapsitwouldbebesttodoublecoppersauce-pansandsmallkettlesthroughout;andasthismayandoughttobedonewithaverythinsheetofmetal,itcouldnotcostmuch,evenifthisliningweretobemadeofsilver。

ButImustnotenlargehereuponasubjectIshallhaveoccasiontotreatmorefullyinanotherplace——Toreturn,therefore,tothesubjectmoreimmediatelyunderconsideration,Food。

CHAPTER。IV。

OfthesmallexpenseatwhichtheBavariansoldiersarefed。

Detailsoftheirhousekeeping,foundedonactualexperiment。

Anaccountofthefuelexpendedbythemincooking。

Ithasoftenbeenmatterofsurprisetomany,andeventothosewhoaremostconversantinmilitaryaffairs,thatsoldierscanfindmeanstoliveupontheverysmallallowancesgrantedthemfortheirsubsistence;andIhaveoftenwonderedthatnobodyhasundertakentoinvestigatethatmatter,andtoexplainamysteryatthesametimecuriousandinteresting,inahighdegree。

Thepayofaprivatesoldierisinallcountriesverysmall,muchlessthanthewagesofaday-labourer;andinsomecountriesitissomereapittance,thatitisquiteastonishinghowitcanbemadetosupportlife。

Thepayofaprivatefoot-soldierintheserviceofHisMostSereneHighnesstheElectorPalatine,(anditisthesameforaprivategrenadierintheregimentofguards,)isFIVECREUTZERS

a-day,andnomore——Formerlythepayofaprivatefoot-soldierwasonlyfourcreutzersandahalfa-day,butlately,upontheintroductionofthenewmilitaryarrangementsinthecountry,hispayhasbeenraisedtofivecreutzers;——andwiththishereceivesonepoundthirteenouncesandahalf,Avoirdupoisweight,ofrye-bread,which,atthemediumpriceofgraininBavariaandthePalatinate,costssomethinglessthanthreecreutzers,orjustaboutONEPENNYsterling。

Thepaywhichthesoldierreceivesinmoney,——(fivecreutzersa-day,)equaltoonepennythreefarthingssterling,addedtohisdailyallowanceofbread,valuedatonepenny,makeTWOPENCE

THREEFARTHINGSa-day,forthesumtotalofhisallowance。

Thatitispossible,inanycountry,toprocureFoodsufficienttosupportlifewithsosmallasum,willdoubtlessappearextraordinarytoanEnglishreader;——butwhatwouldbehissurpriseuponseeingawholearmy,composedofthefinest,stoutest,andstrongestmenintheworld,whoarefeduponthatallowance,andwhosecountenancesshowthemostevidentmarksofruddyhealth,andperfectcontentment?

Ihavealreadyobserved,howmuchIwasstruckwiththedomesticeconomyoftheBavariansoldiers。Ithinkthesubjectmuchtoointeresting,nottobelaidbeforethePublic,eveninallitsdetails;andasIthinkitwillbemoresatisfactorytohearfromtheirownmouthsanaccountofthemannerinwhichthesesoldierslive,Ishalltranscribethereportsoftwosensiblenon-commissionedofficers,whomIemployedtogivemetheinformationIwanted。

Thesenon-commissionedofficers,whobelongtotwodifferentregimentsofgrenadiersingarrisonatMunich,wererecommendedtomebytheircolonelsasbeingverysteady,carefulmen,areeachattheheadofamessconsistingoftwelvesoldiers,themselvesreckonedinthenumber。Thefollowingaccounts,whichtheygavemeoftheirhousekeeping,andoftheexpensesoftheirtables,wereallthegenuineresultsofactualexperimentsmadeatmyparticulardesire,andatmycost。

Idonotbelievethatusefulinformationwaseverpurchasedcheaperthanuponthisoccasion;andIfancymyreaderwillbeofthesameopinionwhenhehasperusedthefollowingreports,whichareliterallytranslatedfromtheoriginalGerman。

“InobediencetotheordersofLieut。GeneralCountRumford,thefollowingexperimentsweremadebySerjeantWickenhof’smess,inthefirstcompanyofthefirst(orElector’sown)regimentofgrenadiers,atMunich,onthe10thand11thofJune1795。

June10th,1795。

BILLOFFARE

Boiledbeef,withsoupandbreaddumplins。

Detailsoftheexpence,etc。

Fortheboiledbeefandthesoup。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

20beef[10]……16

01sweetherbs……1

001/2pepper……01/2

06salt……01/2

1141/2ammunitionbread,cutfine27/8

920water……0——

Total1310Cost207/8

Allthesearticleswereputtogetherintoanearthenpot,andboiledtwohoursandaquarter。Themeatwasthentakenoutofthesoupandweighed,andfoundtoweigh1lb。30loths;which,dividedintotwelveequalportions,gaveFIVELOTHSfortheweightofeach。

Thesoup,withthebread,etc。weighed9lb。301/2loths;which,dividedintotwelveequalportions,gaveforeach267/12loths。

Thecostofthemeatandsouptogether,207/8creutzers,dividedbytwelve,gives13/4creutzers,verynearly,forthecostofeachportion。

Forthebreaddumplins。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

113offinesemelbread10

10offineflour……41/2

06salt……01/2

30ofwater……0——

Total519Cost15

Thismasswasmadeintodumplins,andthesedumplinswereboiledhalfanhourinclearwater。Upontakingthemoutofthewater,theywerefoundtoweigh5lb。24loths;anddividingthemintotwelveequalportions,eachportionweighed151/3loths;andthecostofthewhole(15creutzers),dividedbytwelve,gives11/4

creutzersforthecostofeachportion。

Themeat,soup,anddumplinswereservedallatonceinthesamedish,andwerealleatentogether;andwiththismeal,(whichwastheirdinner,andwaseatattwelveo’clock,)eachpersonbelongingtothemesswasfurnishedwithapieceofrye-bread,weighingtenloths,andwhichcost5/16ofacreutzer——

Eachpersonwaslikewisefurnishedwithapieceofthisbread,weighingtenloths,forhisbreakfast;——anotherpiece,ofequalweight,intheafternoonatfouro’clock;andanotherintheevening。

AnalysisofthisDay’sFare。

EachpersonreceivedintheAmountofcostincourseofthedayBavarianmoney。

Insolids。Influids。

lb。loths。lb。loths。Creutzers。

Boiledbeef05……11/6

Inthesoup。

Rye-bread037/8]

Sweetherbs001/12]

Salt……001/24]……07/16

Pepper……001/24]

Water……0231/2]——

]

Total042/240231/2]

Indumplins。

Wheaten-bread033/4]

Dittoflour022/3]

Salt……001/24]……11/4

Water……071/12]——

]

Total0611/24077/12]

Drybread。

Forbreakfast010]

Atdinner010]

Intheafternoon010]……21/2

Atsupper010]——

]

Total18]——

Generaltotal22413/240311/2whichcost517/48

TheammunitionbreadisreckonedinthisestimateattwocreutzerstheBavarianpound,whichisaboutwhatitcostsatamedium;andasthedailyallowanceofthesoldiersis11/2

Bavarianpoundsofthebread,thisreckonedinmoneyamountstothreecreutzersa-day;andthisaddedtohispayatfivecreutzersa-day,makeseightcreutzersa-day,whichisthewholeofhisallowancefromthesovereignforhissubsistence。

Butitappearsfromtheforegoingaccount,thatheexpendsforFoodnomorethan517/48creutzersa-day,thereisthereforeasurplusamountingto231/48creutzersa-day,orverynearONE-THIRDOFHISWHOLEALLOWANCE,whichremains;andwhichhecandisposeofjustashethinksproper。

Thissurplusiscommonlyemployedinpurchasingbeer,brandy,tobacco,etc。BeerinBavariacoststwocreutzersapint,brandy,orrathermalt-spirits,fromfifteentoeighteencreutzers;andtobaccoisverycheap。

ToenabletheEnglishreadertoform,withoutthetroubleofcomputation,acompleteandsatisfactoryideaofthemannerinwhichtheseBavariansoldiersarefed,IhaveaddedthefollowingAnalysisoftheirfare;inwhichthequantityofeacharticleisexpressedinAvoirdupoisweight,anditscostinEnglishmoney。

Analysis。

Eachpersonbelongingtothemessreceivedinthecourseoftheday,CostinEnglishJune11th,1795。money。

lb。oz。s。d。

Dryammunitionbread1876/1000010/11

Ammunitionbreadcookedinthesoup……024/100023/264

Finewheaten(semel)

breadinthedumplins……023/100010/33——

Totalbread11346/100

Fineflourinthedumplins0165/1000018/33

Boiledbeef……031/100072/198

Inseasoning;fineherbs,saltandpepper……0013/100002/33——

Totalsolids2234/100

Waterpreparedbycooking。

Inthesoup……01452/209

Inthedumplins……0432/100——

Totalpreparedwater1284/100——

Totalsolidsandfluids3518/100

Totalexpenseforeachperson517/48creutzers,equaltoTWOPENCE

sterling,verynearly。

ButastheBavariansoldiershavenotthesamefareeveryday,theexpencesoftheirtablescannotbeascertainedfromonesingleexperiment。IshallthereforereturntoSerjeantWickenhof’sreport。

11thofJune1795。

BillofFare。

Bread,dumplins,andsoup。

Detailsofexpenses,etc。

Forthedumplins。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

213wheatenbread……14

016butter……9

10fineflour……41/2

011eggs……3

06salt……01/2

001/2pepper……01/2

316water——

7301/2Cost311/2creutzers。

Thismadeintodumplins;——thedumplins,afterbeingboiled,werefoundtoweigheightpoundseightloths,which,dividedamongtwelvepersons,gaveforeachtwenty-twoloths——Andthecostofthewhole(311/2creutzers),dividedby12,gives215/24

creutzersforeachportion。

Forthesoup。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

1141/2ammunitionbread……27/8

06salt……01/2

01sweetherbs……1

120water——

13211/2Cost43/8creutzers。

Thissoup,whencooked,weighed11lb,26loths;which,dividedamongthetwelvepersonsbelongingtothemess,gaveforeach31

1/2loths;andthecost(43/8creutzers),dividedbytwelve,givesnearlyTHREE-NINTHSofacreutzerforeachportion。

Forbread。

Fourpiecesofammunitionbread,weighingeachtenloths,foreachperson,——namely,onepieceforbreakfast——oneatdinner——oneintheafternoon,——andoneatsupper;inall,40loths,oronepoundandaquarter,coststwocreutzersandahalf。

Detailsofexpenses,etc。foreachperson。

lb。loths。CreutzersFor18drybread……21/2

For022breaddumplins……215/24

For0311/2breadsoup……03/8——

2301/2ofFoodCost51/2creutzers。

ThesamedetailsexpressedinAvoirdupoisweight,andEnglishmoney:

Foreachpersonlb。oz。Pence1876/100dryammunitionbread010/11

0136/10breaddumplins……0693/792

131/2breadsoup……036/264——

3986/100ofFoodCost2pence。

June20th,1795。

SerjeantKein’smess,secondregimentofgrenadiers。

BillofFare。

Boiledbeef——breadsoup——andliverdumplins。

Detailsofexpenses,etc。

Fortheboiledbeefandsoup。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

20beef……15

061/2salt……01/2

001/2pepper……01/2

02sweetherbs……01/2

224ammunitionbread31/4

170water——

221Cost191/2creutzers。

Theseingredientswereallboiledtogethertwohoursandfiveminutes;afterwhichthebeefwastakenoutofthesoupandweighed,andwasfoundtoweigh1lb。22loths;thesoupweighed15lb。;andthesedividedequallyamongthetwelvepersonsbelongingtothemess,gaveforeachportion,41/2lothsofbeef,and1lb。8lothsofsoup;andthecostofthewhole(19

3/4creutzers),dividedby18,gives131/48creutzersforthecostofeachportion。

Detailsofexpenses,etc。fortheliverdumplins。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

228offinesemelbread15

10ofbeefliver……5

018offineflour……21/2

06ofsalt……01/2

224ofwater——

Total712Cost23creutzers。

Theseingredientsbeingmadeintodumplins,thedumplinsafterbeingproperlyboiledwerefoundtoweigh8lb——Thisgaveforeachportion211/3loths;andtheamountofthecost(23creutzers),dividedby12,thenumberoftheportions,givesforeach111/12creutzers。

Thequantityofdryammunitionbreadfurnishedtoeachpersonwas1lb。8loths;andthis,attwocreutzersapound,amountsto21/2creutzers。

Recapitulation。

Foreachpersonlb。loths。Creutzers。

041/2ofboiledbeef,and]……131/48

18ofbreadsoup]

0211/4ofliverdumplins……111/12

18ofdrybread……21/2——

395/6ofFoodCost63/48creutzers。

InAvoirdupoisweight,andEnglishmoney,itis,——foreachperson:

lb。oz。

02。78ofboiledbeef,and]……0948/1584

18。91ofbreadsoup]

013。19ofliverdumplins……0276/306

18。76ofdrybread……010/11——

41。54ofFoodCost21/5pence。

June21st,1795。

BillofFare。

Boiledbeef,andbreadsoup,withbreaddumplins。

Detailsofexpenses,etc。fortheboiledbeefandbreadsoup。

Thesameasyesterday,Forthedumplins。

lb。loths。Creutzers。

230semelbread……151/2

018fineflour……3

06salt……01/2

30water——

622Cost19creutzers。

Thesedumplinsbeingboiled,werefoundtoweigh7lb。whichgaveforeachperson182/3loths;andeachportioncost17/12

creutzers。

Dryammunitionbreadfurnishedtoeachperson1lb。8loths,whichcost21/2creutzers。

Recapitulation。

Eachpersonbelongingtothemessreceivedthisday:

lb。loths。Creutzers。

041/2ofboiledbeef,and]……131/48

18ofbreadsoup]

0182/3ofbreaddumplins……17/12

18ofdrybread……21/2——

371/6ofFoodCost535/42creutzersInAvoirdupoisweight,andEnglishmoney,itis,lb。oz。

02。78ofboiledbeef,and]……0948/1584

18。76ofbreadsoup]

011。54ofbreaddumplins……0228/396

18。76ofdrybread……010/11——

40ofFoodCost21/12pence。

June22d,1795。

BillofFare。

Breadsoupandmeatdumplins。

Detailsofexpenses,etc。

lb。loths。

20ofbeef……15

230ofsemelbread……151/2

018offineflour……3

01ofpepper……1

012ofsalt……1

02ofsweetherbs……01/2

224ofammunitionbread31/4

216ofwatertothedumplins——

Cost391/4creutzers。

Themeatbeingcutfine,orminced,wasmixedwiththesemelorwheatenbread;andthesewiththeflour,andadueproportionofsalt,weremadeintodumplins,andboiledinthesoup——Thesedumplinswhenboiled,weighed10lb。which,dividedinto12equalportions,gave202/3lothsforeach。

Thesoupweighed15lb。whichgave1lb。8lothsforeachportion——

Ofdryammunitionbread,eachpersonreceived1lb。8loths,whichcost21/2creutzers。

Recapitulation。

Eachpersonreceivedthisdaylb。loths。Creutzers0202/3ofmeatdumplins,and]……313/48

18ofbreadsoup]

18ofammunitionbread21/2——

342/3ofFoodCost537/48creutzers。

InAvoirdupoisweight,andEnglishmoney,itis,lb。oz。Pence。

012。77ofmeatdumplins,and]……1300/1584

18。76ofbreadsoup]

18。76ofammunitionbread……010/11——

314。29ofFoodCost21/10pence。

Theresultsofalltheseexperiments,(andofmanymorewhichI

couldadd,)showthattheBavariansoldiercanlive,——andthefactisthatheactuallydoeslive,——uponalittlemorethanTWOTHIRDSofhisallowance——Ofthefivecreutzersa-daywhichhereceivesinmoney,heseldomputsmorethantwocreutzersandahalf,andnevermorethanthreecreutzersintothemess;

sothatatleastTWO-FIFTHSofhispayremains,afterhehasdefrayedalltheexpensesofhissubsistence;andasheisfurnishedwitheveryarticleofhisclothingbythesovereign,andnostoppageiseverpermittedtobemadeofanypartofhispay,onanypretencewhatever,THEREISNOSOLDIERINEUROPE

WHOSESITUATIONISMORECOMFORTABLE。

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