In the South Seas

第18章

resident,andhoiststheFrenchcoloursoveraquiteextensivecompound。AChinaman,awaiffromtheplantation,keepsarestaurantintherearquartersofthevillage;andthemissioniswellrepresentedbythesister’sschoolandBrotherMichel’schurch。FatherOrens,awonderfuloctogenarian,hisframescarcebowed,thefireofhiseyeundimmed,haslived,andtrembled,andsufferedinthisplacesince1843。Againandagain,whenMoipuhadmadecoco-brandy,hehasbeendrivenfromhishouseintothewoods。

’Amousethatdweltinacat’sear’hadamoreeasyresting-place;

andyetIhaveneverseenamanthatborelessmarkofyears。Hemustshowusthechurch,stilldecoratedwiththebishop’sartlessornamentsofpaper-thelastworkofindustriousoldhands,andthelastearthlyamusementofamanthatwasmuchofahero。Inthesacristywemustseehissacredvessels,and,inparticular,avestmentwhichwasa’VRAIECURIOSITE,’becauseithadbeengivenbyagendarme。TotheProtestantthereisalwayssomethingembarrassingintheeagernesswithwhichgrownandholymenregardthesetrifles;butitwastouchingandprettytoseeOrens,hisagedeyesshininginhishead,displayhissacredtreasures。

AUGUST26-Thevalebehindthevillage,narrowingswiftlytoamereravine,waschokedwithprofitabletrees。Arivergushedinthemidst。Overhead,thetallcoco-palmsmadeaprimarycovering;

abovethat,fromonewallofthemountaintoanother,theravinewasroofedwithcloud;sothatwemovedbelow,amidteemingvegetation,inacoveredhouseofheat。Oneitherhand,ateveryhundredyards,insteadofthehouseless,disembowellingpaepaesofNuka-hiva,populoushousesturnedouttheirinhabitantstocry’Kaoha!’tothepassers-by。Theroad,too,wasbusy:stringsofgirls,fairandfoul,asinlessfavouredcountries;menbearingbreadfruit;thesisters,withalittleguardofpupils;afellowbestridingahorse-passedandgreeteduscontinually;andnowitwasaChinamanwhocametothegateofhisflower-yard,andgaveus’Good-day’inexcellentEnglish;andalittlefartheronitwouldbesomenativeswhosetusdownbythewayside,madeusafeastofmummy-apple,andentertainedusasweatewithdrummingonatincase。Withallthisfineplentyofmenandfruit,deathisatworkherealso。Thepopulation,accordingtothehighestestimate,doesnotexceedsixhundredinthewholevaleofAtuona;andyet,whenI

oncechancedtoputthequestion,BrotherMichelcounteduptenwhomheknewtobesickbeyondrecovery。Itwashere,too,thatI

couldatlastgratifymycuriositywiththesightofanativehouseintheveryarticleofdissolution。Ithadfallenflatalongthepaepae,itspolessprawlingungainly;therainsandthemitescontendedagainstit;whatremainedseemedsoundenough,butmuchwasgonealready;anditwaseasytoseehowtheinsectsconsumedthewallsasiftheyhadbeenbread,andtheairandtherainateintothemlikevitriol。

Alittleaheadofus,ayounggentleman,verywelltattooed,anddressedinapairofwhitetrousersandaflannelshirt,hadbeenmarchingunconcernedly。Ofasudden,withoutapparentcause,heturnedback,tookusinpossession,andledusundissuadablyalongaby-pathtotheriver’sedge。There,inanookofthemostattractiveamenity,hebadeustositdown:thestreamsplashingatourelbow,ashockofnondescriptgreeneryenshriningusfromabove;andthither,afterabriefabsence,hebroughtusacocoa-

nut,alumpofsandal-wood,andastickhehadbeguntocarve:thenutforpresentrefreshment,thesandal-woodforapreciousgift,andthestick-inthesimplicityofhisvanity-toharvestprematurepraise。Onlyonesectionwasyetcarved,althoughthewholewaspencil-markedinlengths;andwhenIproposedtobuyit,Poni(forthatwastheartist’sname)recoiledinhorror。ButI

wasnottobemoved,andsimplyrefusedrestitution,forIhadlongwonderedwhyapeoplewhodisplayed,intheirtattooing,sogreatagiftofarabesqueinvention,shoulddisplayitnowhereelse。Here,atlast,Ihadfoundsomethingofthesametalentinanothermedium;andIheldtheincompleteness,inthesedaysofworld-widebrummagem,forahappymarkofauthenticity。NeithermyreasonsnormypurposehadIthemeansofmakingcleartoPoni;Icouldonlyholdontothestick,andbidtheartistfollowmetothegendarmerie,whereIshouldfindinterpretersandmoney;butwegavehim,inthemeanwhile,aboat-callinreturnforhissandal-

wood。Ashecamebehindusdownthevalehesoundeduponthiscontinually。Andcontinually,fromthewaysidehouses,therepouredforthlittlegroupsofgirlsincrimson,orofmeninwhite。

AndtothesemustPonipassthenewsofwhothestrangerswere,ofwhattheyhadbeendoing,ofwhyitwasthatPonihadaboat-

whistle;andofwhyhewasnowbeinghaledtothevice-residency,uncertainwhethertobepunishedorrewarded,uncertainwhetherhehadlostastickormadeabargain,buthopefulonthewhole,andinthemeanwhilehighlyconsoledbytheboat-whistle。Whereuponhewouldtearhimselfawayfromthisparticulargroupofinquirers,andoncemorewewouldheartheshrillcallinourwake。

AUGUST27-ImadeamoreextendedcircuitinthevalewithBrotherMichel。Weweremountedonapairofsobernags,suitabletotheserudepaths;theweatherwasexquisite,andthecompanyinwhichIfoundmyselfnolessagreeablethanthescenesthroughwhichIpassed。Wemountedatfirstbyasteepgradealongthesummitofoneofthosetwistedspursthat,fromadistance,markoutprovincesofsunandshadeuponthemountain-side。Thegroundfellawayoneitherhandwithanextremedeclivity。Fromeitherhand,outofprofoundravines,mountedthesongoffallingwaterandthesmokeofhouseholdfires。Hereandtherethehillsoffoliagewoulddivide,andoureyewouldplungedownupononeofthesedeep-nestedhabitations。Andstill,highinfront,arosetheprecipitousbarrierofthemountain,greenedoverwhereitseemedthatscarceaharebellcouldfindroot,barredwiththezigzagsofahumanroadwhereitseemedthatnotagoatcouldscramble。Andintruth,forallthelabourthatitcost,theroadisregardedevenbytheMarquesansasimpassable;theywillnotriskahorseonthatascent;andthosewholietothewestwardcomeandgointheircanoes。Ineverknewahilltolosesolittleonanearapproach:

aconsequence,Imustsuppose,ofitssurprisingsteepness。Whenweturnedabout,Iwasamazedtobeholdsodeepaviewbehind,andsohighashoulderofbluesea,crownedbythewhale-likeislandofMotane。Andyetthewallofmountainhadnotvisiblydwindled,andIcouldevenhavefancied,asIraisedmyeyestomeasureit,thatitloomedhigherthanbefore。

Westrucknowintocovertpaths,crossedandheardmorenearathandthebickeringofthestreams,andtastedthecoolnessofthoserecesseswherethehousesstood。Thebirdssangaboutusaswedescended。Allalongourpathmyguidewasbeinghailedbyvoices:

’Mikael-Kaoha,Mikael!’Fromthedoorstep,fromthecotton-

patch,oroutofthedeepgroveofisland-chestnuts,thesefriendlycriesarose,andwerecheerilyansweredaswepassed。Inasharpangleofaglen,onarushingbrookandunderfathomsofcoolfoliage,westruckahouseuponawell-builtpaepae,thefirebrightlyburningunderthepopoi-shedagainsttheeveningmeal;andherethecriesbecameachorus,andthehousefolk,runningout,obligedustodismountandbreathe。Itseemedanumerousfamily:

wesaweightatleast;andoneofthesehonouredmewithaparticularattention。Thiswasthemother,awomannakedtothewaist,ofanagedcountenance,butwithhairstillcopiousandblack,andbreastsstillerectandyouthful。OnourarrivalI

couldseesheremarkedme,butinsteadofofferinganygreeting,disappearedatonceintothebush。Thenceshereturnedwithtwocrimsonflowers。’Good-bye!’washersalutation,utterednotwithoutcoquetry;andasshesaiditshepressedtheflowersintomyhand-’Good-bye!IspeakInglis。’Itwasfromawhaler-man,who(sheinformedme)was’aplentygoodchap,’thatshehadlearnedmylanguage;andIcouldnotbutthinkhowhandsomeshemusthavebeeninthesetimesofheryouth,andcouldnotbutguessthatsomememoriesofthedandywhaler-manpromptedherattentionstomyself。NorcouldIrefrainfromwonderingwhathadbefallenherlover;intherainandmireofwhatsea-portshehadtrampedsincethen;inwhatcloseandgarishdrinking-denshadfoundhispleasure;andinthewardofwhatinfirmarydreamedhislastoftheMarquesas。Butshe,themorefortunate,livedoninhergreenisland。Thetalk,inthislosthouseuponthemountains,ranchieflyuponMapiaoandhisvisitstotheCASCO:thenewsofwhichhadprobablygoneabroadbythentoalltheisland,sothattherewasnopaepaeinHiva-oawheretheydidnotmakethesubjectofexcitedcomment。

Notmuchbeyondwecameuponahighplaceinthefootoftheravine。Tworoadsdividedit,andmetinthemidst。Saveforthisintersectiontheamphitheatrewasstrangelyperfect,andhadacertainruderairofthingsRoman。Depthsoffoliageandthebulkofthemountainkeptitinagratefulshadow。Onthebenchesseveralyoungfolksatclusteredorapart。Oneofthese,agirlperhapsfourteenyearsofage,buxomandcomely,caughttheeyeofBrotherMichel。Whywasshenotatschool?-shewasdonewithschoolnow。Whatwasshedoinghere?-shelivedherenow。Whyso?-noanswerbutadeepeningblush。TherewasnoseverityinBrotherMichel’smanner;thegirl’sownconfusiontoldherstory。

’ELLEAHONTE,’wasthemissionary’scomment,aswerodeaway。

Nearbyinthestream,agrowngirlwasbathingnakedinagoylebetweentwostepping-stones;anditamusedmetoseewithwhatalacrityandrealalarmsheboundedonhermany-colouredunder-

clothes。Eveninthesedaughtersofcannibalsshamewaseloquent。

ItisinHiva-oa,owingtotheinveteratecannibalismofthenatives,thatlocalbeliefshavebeenmostrudelytroddenunderfoot。Itwasherethatthreereligiouschiefsweresetunderabridge,andthewomenofthevalleymadetodefileovertheirheadsupontheroad-way:thepoor,dishonouredfellowssittingthere(allobserversagree)withstreamingtears。Notonlywasoneroaddrivenacrossthehighplace,buttworoadsintersectedinitsmidst。Thereisnoreasontosupposethatthelastwasdoneofpurpose,andperhapsitwasimpossibleentirelytoavoidthenumeroussacredplacesoftheislands。Butthesethingsarenotdonewithoutresult。IhavespokenalreadyoftheregardofMarquesansforthedead,making(asitdoes)sostrangeacontrastwiththeirunconcernfordeath。Earlyonthisday’sride,forinstance,weencounteredapettychief,whoinquired(ofcourse)

whereweweregoing,andsuggestedbywayofamendment。’Whydoyounotrathershowhimthecemetery?’Isawit;itwasbutnewlyopened,thethirdwithineightyears。TheyaregreatbuildershereinHiva-oa;IsawinmyridepaepaesthatnoEuropeandry-stonemasoncouldhaveequalled,theblackvolcanicstoneswerelaidsojustly,thecornersweresoprecise,thelevelssotrue;buttheretaining-wallofthenewgraveyardstoodapart,andseemedtobeaworkoflove。Thesentimentofhonourforthedeadisthereforenotextinct。Andyetobservetheconsequenceofviolentlycounteringmen’sopinions。OfthefourprisonersinAtuonagaol,threewereofcoursethieves;thefourthwasthereforsacrilege。

Hehadlevelledupapieceofthegraveyard-togiveafeastupon,asheinformedthecourt-anddeclaredhehadnothoughtofdoingwrong。Whyshouldhe?Hehadbeenforcedatthepointofthebayonettodestroythesacredplacesofhisownpiety;whenhehadrecoiledfromthetask,hehadbeenjeeredatforasuperstitiousfool。AndnowitissupposedhewillrespectourEuropeansuperstitionsasbysecondnature。

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