Their Wedding Journey

第23章

AttheEnglishcathedraltheeffectisdeepenedbytheepitaphsofthosewhoseliveswerepassedinthejointserviceofEnglandandherloyalchild;andourtravellers,whatevertheirwantofsympathywiththesentiment,hadtoowntoacertainbeautyinthatattitudeofproudreverence。Here,atleast,wasapeoplenotcutofffromitspast,butholding,unbrokeninlifeanddeath,thetieswhichexistforusonlyinhistory。Itgaveaglamourofoldentimetothenewland;ittouchedtheprosaicdemocraticpresentwiththewaningpoeticlightofthearistocraticandmonarchicaltradition。Therewashereandthereatitleonthetablets,andtherewaseverywheretheformallanguageofloyaltyandofvenerationforthingswehavetumbledintothedust。Itisabeautifulchurch,ofadmirableEnglishGothic;ifyouaresohappy,youarerathercurtlytoldyoumayenterbyaburlyEnglishfigureinsomekindofsombreecclesiasticaldrapery,andwithinitsquietprecinctsyoumayfeelyourselfinEnglandifyoulike,——which,formypart,Idonot。

NeitherdidourfriendsenjoyitsomuchastheChurchoftheJesuits,withitsmorethantolerablepainting,itscoldlyfrescoedceiling,itsarchitecturaltasteofsubduedRenaissance,anditsblack-eyedpeasant-

girltellingherbeadsbeforeasidealtar,justasintheenviablydeplorablecountrieswealllove;norsomuchevenastheIrishcathedralwhichtheynextvisited。Thatisaverygorgeouscathedralindeed,paintedandgilded’amerveille’,andeverywherestuckaboutwithbigandlittlesaintsandcrucifixes,andpicturesincrediblybad——butforthoseintheFrenchcathedral。Thereis,ofcourse,aseriesrepresentingChrist’sprogresstoCalvary;andtherewasaverytatteredoldman,——

anoldmanwhosevoicehadbeenlongagodrownedinwhiskey,andwhonowspokeinaghostlywhisper,——who,whenhesawBasil’seyefallupontheseries,madehimgotheroundofthem,andtediouslyexplainedthem。

“Whydidyouletthatoldwretchboreyou,andthenpayhimforit?“

Isabelasked。

“O,itremindedmesosweetlyoftheswindlesofotherlandsanddays,thatIcouldn’thelpit,“heanswered;andstraightwayintheeyesofboththatpoor,whiskeyfied,IrishtatterdemalionstoodtransfiguredtothegloriouslikenessofanItalianbeggar。

Theywerealwaysdoingsomethingofthiskind,thoseabsurdlysentimentalpeople,whomyetIcannotfinditinmyhearttoblamefortheirfolly,thoughIcouldnameeversomanyreasonsforrebukingit。Why,infact,shouldwewishtofindAmericalikeEurope?Aretheruinsandimposturesandmiseriesandsuperstitionswhichbesetthetravellerabroadsoprecious,thatheshoulddesiretoimaginethemateverystepinhisownhemisphere?Orhavewethenofourownnoeffectiveshapesofignoranceandwantandincredibility,thatwemustforeverseekanaliencontrasttoournativeintelligenceandcomfort?Somesuchquestionsthisguiltycoupleputtoeachother,andthendroveofftovisittheconventoftheGrayNunswithajoyfulexpectationwhichIsupposetheprospectofthefinestpublic-schoolexhibitioninBostoncouldneverhaveinspired。

But,indeed,sincetheremustbeGrayNuns,isitnotwellthattherearesentimentaliststotakeamournfulpleasureintheirsad,pallidexistence?

TheconventisatagooddistancefromtheIrishcathedral,andingoingtoitthetouristsmadetheirdrivercarrythemthroughoneofthefewoldFrenchstreetswhichstillremaininMontreal。FiresandimprovementshadmadehavocamongthequainthorsessinceBasil’sfirstvisit;butatlasttheycameuponanarrow,ancientRueSaintAntoine,——orwhateverothersaintitwascalledafter,——inwhichtherewasno

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